Introduction
Trat province occupies Thailand's most eastern extremity, pressing against the Cambodian border with an archipelago of islands that includes Koh Chang — the country's second-largest island — and extending south through a scatter of smaller islands toward the Cambodian coastline. For most visitors, Trat town is the logistical gateway rather than a destination in itself, the place where decisions about islands and ferries get made. This understates the province's value. Trat town has genuine charm that rewards those who pause before rushing to the islands — wooden shophouses along the canal, a gem market of real historical significance, and a local pace that feels genuinely removed from tourist Thailand. But for those whose compass points toward island and sea, Trat provides some of the most spectacular archipelago options in the entire Gulf of Thailand.
Overview
The primary gateway to Koh Chang is Laem Ngop pier, situated approximately 30 kilometres west of Trat town. From Laem Ngop, car ferries and passenger ferries depart regularly — approximately every 30-60 minutes throughout the day from 6am to 9pm, with a crossing time of 30 minutes to the island's Ao Sapparot pier. The ferry fare is 80 THB for passengers; vehicles pay additionally by size. Two competing ferry companies operate the route (Centrepoint Ferry and Koh Chang Ferry), and the services are reliable and frequent enough that you essentially never need to worry about scheduling — just arrive and board the next departure.
Koh Chang itself is a substantial island with a mountainous forested interior and a developed western coast where the main beaches are located. Hat Sai Khao (White Sand Beach) is the largest and most developed, with a full range of hotels and restaurants. Lonely Beach is the backpacker enclave, smaller and more relaxed. Kai Bae sits in the middle in both geography and character — a good choice for most visitors. The eastern coast is almost entirely undeveloped and requires a proper boat charter to access, which is worthwhile for those seeking genuine seclusion.
Beyond Koh Chang, Trat's southern islands offer progressively more pristine experiences at the cost of increasingly complex access logistics. Koh Mak, accessible by speedboat (2.5 hours from Laem Ngop, approximately 1500-2000 THB per person) or slower ferry, is small, flat, and bicycle-friendly, with a genuinely peaceful atmosphere and several good mid-range resort options. Koh Kood (Koh Kut), the furthest accessible island, is widely regarded as among the most beautiful and pristine islands remaining in the Gulf of Thailand. The journey takes 4 hours by speedboat from Laem Ngop (approximately 2500-3500 THB per person) and is rewarded by near-perfect beaches, clear water, and a development scale that has so far been kept deliberately modest.
Trat Airport, served by Bangkok Airways with three daily flights from Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi Airport, reduces the overland journey from 5 hours to 1 hour and costs approximately 1500-3000 THB each way. For travellers prioritising time over budget, flying to Trat and taking a taxi to Laem Ngop pier (40 minutes, 400-500 THB) is by far the most efficient access strategy for the archipelago.
Highlights
- Laem Ngop pier — ferries to Koh Chang every 30-60 minutes, 80 THB, 30-minute crossing
- Koh Chang — Thailand's second-largest island with diverse beaches and forest interior
- Koh Mak — flat, quiet, bicycle-friendly island 2.5 hours by speedboat
- Koh Kood — arguably the most pristine remaining Gulf island, 4 hours by speedboat
- Trat Airport served by Bangkok Airways (1 hour vs 5 hours bus, 1500-3000 THB)
- Trat town wooden shophouses and canal — genuine Thai town with no tourist infrastructure
- Two competing ferry companies for reliable Koh Chang access
- Eastern coast of Koh Chang — undeveloped wilderness accessible by charter boat
- Cross-border potential via Hat Lek to Cambodia's Koh Kong
- The complete eastern archipelago island-hopping route from Koh Chang to Koh Kood
November through April is the optimal season for the Trat archipelago — calm seas, clear visibility, and reliable sun. The monsoon season (May-October) brings rough seas that can suspend speedboat services to Koh Mak and Koh Kood, though the Koh Chang car ferry usually continues operating in all but the most severe conditions. November through January is the prime season with the best combination of calm conditions and lower accommodation prices than the peak December-January holiday period.
Practical Information
Cost Level
Bus Bangkok to Trat: 250-350 THB. Trat Airport flight: 1500-3000 THB each way. Taxi Trat town to Laem Ngop: 300-400 THB. Koh Chang ferry: 80 THB passenger, vehicle extra. Koh Mak speedboat: 1500-2000 THB per person. Koh Kood speedboat: 2500-3500 THB per person. Budget accommodation on Koh Chang: 600-1200 THB. Mid-range: 1500-3500 THB. Koh Kood resorts: 3000-15000 THB per night.
Tips
If flying to Trat, pre-arrange your taxi to Laem Ngop pier as the airport is small and taxis can be scarce. The Koh Chang ferry schedules are posted clearly at Laem Ngop — arrive 10 minutes before departure for vehicle boarding. For Koh Mak and Koh Kood, speedboat times are tide-dependent and routes change seasonally; confirm with your accommodation before booking one-way. Staying overnight in Trat town before the ferry is a pleasant option rather than rushing through — the guesthouses along the canal are atmospheric and inexpensive.
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Frequently Asked Questions
How do I get from Bangkok to Trat and Koh Chang?
Three options: (1) Bus from Bangkok's Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekkamai) direct to Laem Ngop pier area, approximately 5-6 hours and 250-350 THB — the most affordable route. (2) Bangkok Airways flight from Suvarnabhumi to Trat Airport, 1 hour, 1500-3000 THB each way, followed by a 40-minute taxi to Laem Ngop (400-500 THB). (3) Self-drive via Motorway 7 and Route 3, approximately 5 hours from Bangkok, ferry your car on the Koh Chang car ferry for an additional fee. Flying is by far the fastest but the bus is entirely practical for those with a relaxed schedule.
What is the difference between Koh Chang, Koh Mak, and Koh Kood?
Koh Chang is the largest and most developed — it has the widest range of accommodation, restaurants, and activities, but its main beaches can be busy during peak season. Koh Mak is small, flat, and peaceful — famous for its relaxed pace, bicycle rental culture, and unpretentious mid-range resorts. It is ideal for couples and families who want quiet over activities. Koh Kood is the most remote and pristine — exceptional beaches, crystal water, and a very limited number of resorts that have deliberately avoided overdevelopment. Koh Kood is the premium choice for those who specifically want wilderness-quality beaches with resort comfort.
Is it possible to island-hop between all three islands in one trip?
Yes, and it makes for an excellent multi-day itinerary. A typical five to seven day island-hopping trip might run: Day 1-2 Koh Chang (explore the main beaches and interior), Day 3 speedboat to Koh Mak (bicycles and afternoon beach), Day 4-5 speedboat to Koh Kood (the destination beach days), Day 6 return to Trat and bus or fly to Bangkok. Speedboat connections between the islands exist, though schedules are limited — your accommodation can usually arrange inter-island transfers for 600-1500 THB per person depending on the route.
Should I stay in Trat town or go straight to the ferry?
If you arrive in Trat late afternoon or evening, it makes excellent sense to stay overnight in town rather than rushing for the last ferry — Trat's canal-front guesthouses are atmospheric and inexpensive (400-800 THB per night), and the town's gem market and wooden shophouse district are worth an evening walk. The morning ferry after an overnight in Trat gives you a fresher arrival on the island. If you arrive before 3pm, it's easy to continue to Laem Ngop and catch an afternoon ferry. The morning ferry option also gives you better light for photography from the deck.
What should I know about Bangkok Airways flights to Trat?
Bangkok Airways operates three daily flights between Suvarnabhumi and Trat Airport on small turboprop aircraft (ATR 72). Flight duration is approximately 1 hour. The airline uses a boutique airline model — lighter luggage allowances than full-service carriers and a smaller airport at both ends, but reliable on-time performance. Book in advance as the aircraft are small and flights fill quickly during peak season weekends. The Trat airport experience is notably relaxed compared to Suvarnabhumi — you exit the aircraft onto the tarmac and walk directly to the terminal. A taxi desk immediately outside the terminal arranges shared taxis to Laem Ngop and Trat town.